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That was great fun

Noticed another leak point and now replaced the black spring clips with Jubilees... bloody murder trying to do this in such a tight spot.

Will re-fill and check it later.

I too will be replacing mine soon once the tube kit arrives. Not looking forward to it, since I've heard nothing but horror stories about replacing it. I'm left with no choice since I cannot see through it at all. After all, my tube is 17 yrs old.

Looks like a good fix mate, certainly is tight in there.

Steve..

I have done that..not easy..

With the bike running and level...not on side stand..have the level between the lines...

I drained 2.5 Lts and had to fill with 2.9 Lts to get between those lines Barry, I did as you and the good book advised

I would have changed the 10 mm pipe Orlando but I can see through it at the moment, I note it is hard but will put a knife though it and crock nose plier it off when the time comes. That will be easy to do now with the Jubilee clips top & bottom.

Orange sump pan gasket and internal filter cleaned and replaced so I'll look at putting 2 or 3 pieces of steel flat bar along the sump plate if that shows signs of leaking.

Another step forward Gordon, I've wired in a switch on the Running Light wire as it's a shame not to use the indicators as designed - they do look nice and I can just flick the switch at MoT time

Steve, my thoughts on the hose are: leave it be if its not leaking. When you need to see the level, spray the hose with brake clean and get a good flashlight. You'll see it just fine.

I left the old pipe there Bryan as I can see through it, all I did was replace the black spring clips with Jubilees so they're now gripping and the pipe is oil tight.

Looks like the Sump Plate is still dripping, so temp fix with Silicone Sealant around outer edge for the moment.
Flat bar on shopping list for this next improvement.

Hope this helps Orlando...

A: Grind off 1/3rd of the head.
B: Grind off this pin.
C: Bend this tail back & forth until it snaps off.

You should find the top Jubilee will then slide up the pipe and fit in the narrow gap.
I used a small 4 BA ring spanner to finally tighten both Jubilee's.

Thank you for the tips Steve. I'll give an update once I have completed the task.

Meanwhile... my transmission saga continues, the pipe and breather are now both oil tight and the levels are looking good.

But, I've now discovered the Gear Shift rod seal on the left side is leaking.

Before I start ripping into that side of the transmission box, can the seal be replaced without too much trouble or will the box need taking out?

I do believe it is fairly easy to replace the seal..

Looks like the 1st photo posted by Orlando shows the offending item... agreed, it looks fairly easy to replace so I just need to look out for any burrs on the shifter shaft and file them off.

Is there a size available for this seal so I can order a few;
EG: I/D x O/D x seal thickness.

EDIT: Since posting the above note I've dropped the left exhaust pipe and undone the 2 x 13mm bolts on the Shifter Shaft operating arm.
There were no burrs so the arm came straight off the shaft.
The shaft seal retaining was finger tight and I started to undo it with my fingers until oils started leaking out.
It looks like this is just a tightening job and the seal should be okay.

The seal p/n is 4912 which was purchased from NAPA. The seal retainer/fitting has been known to come loose, which will cause the oil leak. There is a small o'ring (I don't have a p/n for it, just match one up) that goes on the fitting that creates the seal between it and the case. Always check fitting first for proper torque before unnecessarily thinking its the small shift shaft seal.

Mentioned to Gordon yesterday that this bike is a real dream to work on, everything is relatively easy to get at and the design is basically sound albeit a few improvements here and there which just add to the bike bonding process.


Been out for a quick spin and the Transmission all looks clean ~ I can now relax knowing all is well down under.