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Hi Ventury,

Just haven't had the time to cut the crossmember yet as I'l hve to drain rad and block when the water pump comes off. I'll take shots of it when I can and pick up on the thread.

We ain't getting any younger I'm afraid, but What the Hell! live it up whenever you can.

Your killing us!!!!! We need to know.

Just cut a hole in the pan and weld it up if it turns out to be not a problem. If it is a big problem. The motor will have to come out, and you won't have to cut the cross member!

V8Norm wrote:Your killing us!!!!! We need to know.

Just cut a hole in the pan and weld it up if it turns out to be not a problem. If it is a big problem. The motor will have to come out, and you won't have to cut the cross member!

I agree...all this foreplay!! let's get to the nitty gritty!!!

Same here a friend cut a hole in his pan fixed pump then re welded. It looks ok an worked for him

Butkicker wrote:Same here a friend cut a hole in his pan fixed pump then re welded. It looks ok an worked for him

Yes, but will that change the sound/feel of the subsequent tapping?!?!?!? Might be a BIG risk that it wouldn't be the same after re-welding, and then you'd be really fubarred when it comes to getting the same level of enjoyment in tapping. On the other hand, it might seem like someone else was doing the tapping for you and even be better.............

I hope all of these, "Just cut a hole in your pan and weld it up", suggestions are late April Fools pranks. On what planet is it simpler to fix an oil pump, through a hole in the pan, or to take all of an hour, or so, and build a removable crossmember????
Whats next, a tutorial on changing your rings through the spark plug hole????

I suggest cutting the whole bottom of the pan off and sending it to Boss Hoss with a letter explaining how tapping the pan and their piss poor design led to this. Then just take a piece of flat fucking sheet metal and weld it back on the pan. If anybody questions your fix just proudly point out that you still have a genuine unmolested Boss Hoss crossmember.

Better yet, toss the pan, drill and tap the rods and mains for Zerks and grease them before every ride

Carl La Fong wrote:Better yet, toss the pan, drill and tap the rods and mains for Zerks and grease them before every ride

What a great idea! It leaves just a couuple issues synthetic grease or non syn? Should the "lubing" take place before (cold engine) the ride or after (hot engine) the ride? Wouldn't the grease be dispersed more "evenly" when engine is warm?

For me, it would have to be free range, organic, Rocky Mountain, bear grease or hand choked, baby harp seal blubber

^^^^^^ ^^^^^^

I know you guys think me a prick-tease but I haven't been able to organise rad and block drain, water pump and alternator removal, let alone cutting cross-member/dropping pan as that will take me some time on my own.

Add in between work and we've had a big family upheaval with my Alzheimer's Father-in-law breaking hip and now have had to organise a nursing home as Head Honcho in the family. I tell you guys, Alzheimer's is the worst way to go - give me a .45 in the temple when I'm asleep instead!

Hope to get tore in over Christmas, with pics.

GordonBH wrote:I know you guys think me a prick-tease but I haven't been able to organise rad and block drain, water pump and alternator removal, let alone cutting cross-member/dropping pan as that will take me some time on my own.

Add in between work and we've had a big family upheaval with my Alzheimer's Father-in-law breaking hip and now have had to organise a nursing home as Head Honcho in the family. I tell you guys, Alzheimer's is the worst way to go - give me a .45 in the temple when I'm asleep instead!

Hope to get tore in over Christmas, with pics.

You are killing us for sure...4 pages of posts on this thread and still no answer....

hogv8 wrote:I tapped on my pan , nothing . If I did hear something I would do the bore scope thing before I cut anything .

I think I remember Grumpy saying he cut out his cross member and reattached it with sleeves instead of flanges . Not sure exactly how he did this but it seems doable . Probably slip fit sleeves bolted thru the frame similar to the way the frame split is only with the sleeves on the outside if the frame instead of the inside .

After looking at the cross member pictures that MIKE Kelly fabricated for Bills new bike it is similar to what I was trying to describe instead of welding flanges to the cross member . Actually it's like the top frame split . Seems a lot easier than flanges and will work just as well .

Hi all,
I finally got in there and found the reason for the rattle and here it is - Oil pick-up sitting pretty in the pan! I reckon it was the tube end that was rattling when I patted the pan.


Well Sue asked me to send some pics of the process so I’ll start with the tear down. Using some tips from you V8-ers I tore into it this week. Overall, the biggest issue is when doing this in situ the space is tight, everywhere, it’s just I haven’t the space or kit in my garage to split the frame and remove engine.
I got away without removing the waterpump and draining yadda yadda – just cut a bit out of the pump mount plate rear for sawing and welding access.
I found the Alternator bracket traps the front right of the pan flange so it had to come off. So before I removed the alt. I measured the belt tension using my own patent belt tension measure – a bulldog clip pre-tensioned with an audio jack. Simply push one end against the belt and measure when the jack falls out – 5mm. Trust a Scotsman to save his pennies.
Then I taped and lined up the crossmember to realign it when it goes back together at weld stage. Note the CLF tip of a jubilee clip to guide the saw. I tried most things, angle grinder and sawsall but the angle grinder had a tough time on the flat plate and was too slow, the sawsall was too big for the space so I used my trusty jigsaw – I used a great Bosch 132mm blade which can easily cope with the 1 ½” tube, and it’s still razor sharp. But in the end it was on the floor. A welcome sight and worth a beer. Tip: remove the oil filter for ease of access to rear of pan, you may need it. After I removed all the bolts the damn pan was still solid as a rock! Although it had a 1-piece gasket it had been RTV’d in. Fortunately the rear had very little and it eventually pulled down but at the front you can only cut one face of RTV. So it’s pull and gentle well spread leverage and as you get a bit of space more slicing with a very sharp blade. Another beer.

So now it’s a case of cleaning up all the old RTV (may have to buy remover) replacing the tube at the right height, and welding the crossmember up. I’m customising the flanges now – I’m using flanges as I had some so-called 38mm ID wastegate ones. They aren’t of course a straight shoe-in as the tubing is 38.5 so it’s a grinding and custom fitting weekend.
Still I’ve learnt a lot and I never thought I’d see the underside of some of my pistons! They look the business.
Thanks to you all for your tips and support – at times even I thought I was going nuts.

Thanks for providing the final chapter in the mystery - and for the pictures to illustrate your findings and dismantling process.

I now feel compelled to have a beer and a smoke.........and I don't smoke.

I hope that someone now determines the proper interval for pan tapping in the routine maintenance of our bikes, as it undoubtedly is an important check-step that we've been missing.

Cheers,
Mike

Gordon I just love your ingenuity!! The pictures video and description made it feel as though I was in the garage wrenching with you. I also feel like I need a drink - cheers!!

Well Mike, IMHO, when you finally un-thread the pan drain plug at oil change times your palm is right under the ideal pan-tapping point

And thanks Sue, I'm glad you asked for pics way back, hopefully it helps others in some way.

Yesterday, I cleaned up the pick-up and pushed it back on - went back easily with enough resistance to stay where I set it, so I'll measure and set the height and Sharpie mark it to ensure the welder tacks it perfectly.

I'll point it artificially low and put the pan back in place to push the tube up, then raise it another 1/2" and that's the angle.