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I finished moving the trans cooler and put a little air scoop below it. I got a used 6" Spal fan on Ebay that is manually switched on/off. The heat shield has sticky backed heat barrier film to help. Hopefully the changes will get the temps down. On the other side, the fuel pump changes are almost done. Waiting on some fittings to get here , plus , I'm slow !

The filters and fuel pump are relocated , and it'll be easier to service them. I machined a heatsink to fit the pump and assume it will help since its down in the air and not right next to the transmission housing. I moved the regulator back away from the cylinder head and did not bolt it to the frame. The last change was turning the gauge so I can see it while driving. I should have thought of that before. Might even get to put some miles on it this weekend once again !

You are a genius and a perfectionist to boot!! Nice job!

Thanks for the kind words but that's not true ! I just re-make fancy brackets until they work better. I did manage to go the the station and fill it up then ride to work and then home before it rained. The water temp was 195 while running parked in the garage and the trans cooler was now 165 .
The fuel pump was only warm. When the weather gets drier, I can start using it again and move onto why the converter never feels like its locked. The indicator light shows when the circuit is complete but the tach and seat of the pants doesn't prove it. I wouldn't be surprised if the place that supplied the tranny sent a used or bad converter along with it...but thats a future adventure.

We were out on it a few days ago and my wife drove it for the first time. I put a used scratched windshield on it temporarily to see what that was going to feel like, and its "ok" . The fork clamps have layers of painters tape around the tubes since I'm sure they'll leave marks when I remove them. I found some 1/8"polycarbonate called MR-10 that has a hardness coating, and just a slight smoke tint. When the new brackets are done, I'm gonna pursue my idea of two small windshields . For now, a few miles added when we get the chance...https://youtu.be/XoyVvLnvJA4

Looks and sounds awesome!

Yesterday was a good day. I took my 86 yr young mom for her first trike ride and she was ready for it. Her home is next to near perfect back roads with rolling hills. After the first 3 or 4 miles hanging around 40-45 , she said " this sure makes my teeth feel dry" . She had a big smile the whole time ! So her first 35 minute ride was a good one. But, for some yet unknown reason, just before my wife and I got home , the fuel pressure ramped up and down and it nearly stalled about 6 times. After 1 1/2 miles of coaxing it from stalling and then speeding to try and make it home, all the sudden the fuel pressure went steady to 45 psi and everything was normal. WTF. !!

After more digging into the fuel pressure issue, I found once again I did what they say not to. Never put a 90 degree fitting in the suction side of the pump. Straight, a sweep, or two 45's. I didn't know that. Then, I found a Holley pump that is good only for intermittent use when the temperature is 90 or above. If you want to run in hotter temps, they say to use a #12-600. So, I ask Travis at Holley to explain what the difference was since he is aware of the trikes issue and how I don't have it squared away yet. His reply...
" Jeff,
I can’t speak for Aeromotives pump obviously, but I will say in my experience hot fuel handling is a big problem with most all fuel pump brands I have seen used and tried due to the poor quality and low boiling points of fuel these days. So it’s really not so much a pump problem as it is a fuel problem. Today’s pump gas can start to boil as low as 100* F ambient temps which is not hot at all around an engine or in an engine bay. So to answer what the difference is in the Holley pumps listed for part time use below 90* and the others that are continuous duty and capable of handling the hot fuel is the amount of vacuum the pump pulls to prime. The larger pumps that are listed not so well for hot fuel pull a higher vacuum which in turns lowers that boiling point even more as anything placed under vacuum will boil much faster. " So , I'm gonna try one and move things around again. Maybe, this will finally solve the problem...!

Jeff , by suction side you obviously mean the gas tank side right .

Jack, yes. There is a 1/2" hose from my tank into the 100 micron filter, then a 90 into the pump.

I go straight to the pump but 90 degree out of the pump . I really think the fan I have blowing directly on my Holley Red helps . Haven't had a vapor lock problem in Florida since I installed the fan .

Jack, my bike was a vapor locker from hell. I mounted a Holley Red under the left side cover about 7 years ago and even without a fan on it or any special cooling mod it has never vapor locked again. Temps here in Vegas are some of the hottest in the country and its been reliable. I even put one on my 78 Ford which has the original 460 in it and the under hood temps are outrageous in summer with the AC on and it stopped vapor locking. The original AIRTECH fuel pump that was mounted on the bell housing of the Boss Hoss got red hot was worthless in Vegas heat.

I lost track of the plan number I'm on with the fuel system, but this is going on next. It's Holley's 12-600 pump and a giant size 100 micron pre filter with -12an fittings. I'm betting this is gonna work based on I'm tired of switching things around.

Don't return style fuel systems basically eliminate vapor lock?

Jack, I agree that that returning the fuel to the tank allows it to be mixed with "cooler" fuel. But I also copied this text after some searching.... "In older return-type systems, the fuel pump delivers more fuel to the engine than it actually needs. The excess fuel is then routed back to the fuel tank through a pressure regulator and return line. This can increase the temperature of the fuel because of the heat it picks up while circulating through the fuel rail in the engine compartment. Eliminating the return line keeps fuel temperatures lower and more consistent for better fuel economy and emissions..."
My setup does not circulate through the fuel rails because the frame position forced me to modify the original plumbing. But Holley gave me the OK beforehand. I tee'd the pressure line from the post filter as close to the front rail as space allowed.
Once this new pump and filter are in, we'll see if the hot weather or high temps, and the 10% ethanol will take care of it.

Hey Imzz4,
Not all return systems put the fuel through the rail before returning to the tank. For example, if you wanted to buy a Corvette fuel filter, the FPR is in the filter... so it doesn't make it near the fuel rails. Also, anytime you run an FPR before the rails, you're circulating pre-rail. So, you deadhead the fuel rails and let your fuel circulate freely outside of the rails, it helps with temperature control as well as keeping your pump happy. Your pump will run cooler also reducing the heat in the fuel. On your return line you could also run a cooler, if you needed to, that would help cool the fuel even more. Hopefully what you're doing solves your problem, I had similar issues on my sbc BH years ago...

Jack, thats good to hear. Mine is set up as you described with the rails being dead headed . Its funny now looking back, how I thought everything was gonna work fine and all I had to do was make sure it had proper wiring and no leaks.

Finally , I was able to put the 'honey-do' list away and start on the trunk lid .
The 4 countersunk bolts showed in the clear after a few weeks in the sun. I see now the body shop sanded all my Fibral out, and filled it with spot putty. Bummer. I'm redoing it again. That person will not touch it, only the painter this time.

Hi Jeff, not heared from you for a while. Finally got around to doing your trunk. I know its been nagging you for some time. Hows the trike going now. All sorted ? I do hope you dont have to wait for the trunk lid as you did for the body !!

I hope the same thing with the painter. I still have the fuel pump setup to re-do yet. I removed some of a load bearing wall between the kitchen and dining room, and removed all the hardwood and carpet ,and put a new subfloor down. there went 7 weeks. Now the new floor can go down. "Honey, am I done yet ???"

I better get a move on it or summer will be here! I cut a piece of ss to rest between the trans and the fuel tank with an 1/8" air gap. Hoping it might help keep the tank cooler , can't hurt. Also decided to add a second fuel passageway from the top into the bottom part of the tank. Fill ups at the gas station might go faster instead of having to fill only thru the hole for the fuel sender. I found a new longer sender that is now only an 1/8" from the bottom instead of 1 1/2 inches.
The Holley is mounted and fed with a 5/8" hose to the filter. If these changes don't stop 90+ hot weather fuel issues, then the pump's gonna have to go in the tank.
I still have to look into the TCC wiring and decided to put a temp sender in the pan when its off.
(Both pugs liked the "remodeling" so much, they have left me presents to pick up , more than once. Ha )

The wiring was wrong for the solenoid. What I drew and how I wired it were't the same. There was no ground for the solenoid but there was for the indicator light. Duh ??
How can you mess up three wires !! easy

I went to the gas station to top it off and found the fuel gauge only reading two bars. On the ride back home I never did feel the converter lock up but I may not been going fast enough.
I removed the new (longer) fuel sender . It was fine and reading 55 ohms. I went to check the settings in the Dakota as a next step. All I had to do was hold the left button in and then turn the key on to get the menu up. Ha , go figure. As soon as I turned the key it broke inside and just spun 360 ...After I said "are you f'n kidding me", and waited for my blood pressure to settle, I took it apart to find they had drilled the roll pin hole off center ,and it was loose and fell out..
A new one is one the way, but again proof , If it has tits or wheels it will give you problems .
I jumped the wires and found the Dakota was no longer set to 30-240 ohms. Its now reading almost full.
At least the new windshield did a decent job for its size on the short ride.

I had a good trike ride on my birthday and the weather couldn't have been better. Everything was good. The tranny temp stayed near 165 on average and the high was 179. The solenoid and wire changes worked out well also. The voltage never went below 14.0 with both fans on. I measured only .01 volts from the alternator to the battery ground post. There is only a 1.2ma draw between the neg battery terminal and the post ( from the Dakota digital).
The 3 remaining issues aren't too bad. The front wheel needs balanced. The 3-4 shift is still too close. And the converter has not locked up.
Now I can start getting some miles on it. What a project !

Things get better . 587 miles ,and things seems pretty good today after a perfect weather ride with my wife behind me. But I noticed with stronger roll-ons , (and hanging on), the bars kept creeping down and I'd have to move the mirrors.
I tapped the bars for a 1/4-28 socket head so it aligned just right with the riser bolt. The're not going anywhere now. I still have the other riser available to move them up or down if I want to, assuming I put the hole in the right place a second time on the first try... !
AND A++ to QA1 shocks ! I adjusted the springs 3/16" tighter, and increased dampers from the 3rd to the 5th click. Nice .

PS thats black magic marker where i cut the powder coat off.