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I sent my rear shocks to Alden for a "rebuild" a couple months ago. They called me and said that I had the wrong springs for a big block Boss Hoss. Huh, I've ridden my bike that way for 16 years and had not noticed a problem.

They said that my current springs were 220 lb. and I should be running 350 lb springs.

They said that 220 lb. springs are for the small block BH.

So, I had Alden change the springs to 350 lb. but I also had them send my 220 lb. springs back to me - just in case.

Any thoughts on which springs are correct?

Wild Bill

P.S. I just got the bike back together and took a five mile ride. The rear seems a bit stiff to me.

Bill, never had my shocks rebuilt but remember reading that 350-400 was the norm for 502's. More weight on the bike will result in a smoother ride so you may have to pile on the food in Daytona . The springs will settle in a bit over time. We had shocks done on Sue's old vrod and thats what happened to hers.

WB,

I sent my rear shocks to Alden for a rebuild.
They were leaking oil.
My bike was bottoming out a bit.
I learned the SB rear shocks are 300's.
I had them put 450-Lb springs on them.
It raised my bike up enough that I
don't bottom out any more.
Stiffer yes.
Bike rides MUCH better with a passenger !
Handles a bit better in the twisties IF
the road is smooth.
If bumpy, the rear end wants to bounce a
little, so I just slow down a bunch, and
enjoy the scenery more.

The increased stiffness could be from the rebuilt shocks rebound setting. Maybe lighten up a little on the dampening to give it a little softer feel. If you can't get it to feel the way you want, put the lighter springs back on.

Just be sure that you are not going to re-create issues you have had in the past. Perhaps you thought you never had a bottoming out issue in the past ... but is that why your taillights had issues??

Are your shocks adjusted / screwed up at all?? If so come down one thread at a time and see what happens..

if I remember right it is about 8 threads showing for what I would like in a ride on my BB's

Great replies, info and advice guys.... thanks!

I've got the same number of threads showing as before, ten. Sounds like a good idea to come down a bit and see how that feels.

No bottoming out on the fender. I know this because I had to remove the rear fender and completely rebuild the built-in LED tail lights. Also, damper setting was at "1" counter- clockwise all the way. I actually dialed it to "6" to see if that made a difference. Didn't notice anything.

I definitely need to put more miles on it and see how it feels.

Thanks again!

WB

Wild Bill wrote:Great replies, info and advice guys.... thanks!

I've got the same number of threads showing as before, ten. Sounds like a good idea to come down a bit and see how that feels.

No bottoming out on the fender. I know this because I had to remove the rear fender and completely rebuild the built-in LED tail lights. Also, damper setting was at "1" counter- clockwise all the way. I actually dialed it to "6" to see if that made a difference. Didn't notice anything.

I definitely need to put more miles on it and see how it feels.

Thanks again!

WB

yes...if they put heavier springs then you will need to run them softer / less tight on the threads....end result should be a better ride...

I went from 300 lb. Springs to 400 lb. Springs , 8 threads showing and the dampeners set at 5 when Cheryl rides with me and set at 1 when I ride alone . Seems best for mine ?

Thanks for the helpful feedback!!!

Bill

Any tips on how to rate the spings you have? Mine I expect are facory choice ones but of course are different to the standard SB it being an SS with shorter springs.

GordonBH wrote:Any tips on how to rate the spings you have? Mine I expect are facory choice ones but of course are different to the standard SB it being an SS with shorter springs.

They are color coded...generally speaking from what I have found the SS is a nicer ride in the rear suspension than a standard frame SB or BB..you are lucky my friend..

Yes Barry,

A nice ride indeed, I guess the color coding is hidden when in the shock as I can't see any colouring at the ends.

Gordon, I take it theres no numbers etched in on your springs ?

Bill, how did you make out with your front motor mounts?

Imzz4 wrote:Bill, how did you make out with your front motor mounts?

The front motor mounts (tabs) on the down tubes were fine this time. They had broken once before and I had them rewelded and strengthened back then.

This time, the bolts sheered-off that secure the cylinder heads to these tabs. The bolts got drilled out and replaced.

I would venture to say that many more people have issues with these engine mount tabs and they just don't know about it because they are hard to see behind the radiator.

Thanks for asking, Jeff!

Bill

Bill - I had my right side upper engine mount bolt break off several years ago. I was lucky and was able to back out the broken piece from the mounting tab without much difficulty. It was just a regular bolt so I realigned the mounts on both sides so there was no stress and replaced both with grade 8 bolts and it has been fine ever since.

Hi Paul,

No etchings I can see, I guess there is paint on the upper or lower spring flats

Yes there is usually a dab of colored paint on the top or bottom of the spring.

Thanks Sonny

Sonny wrote:Yes there is usually a dab of colored paint on the top or bottom of the spring.

yes...if not worn off

Barry, I did wonder about the wisdom of placing paint in that area... maybe an number stamp would have been a better method - ah well.

Wild Bill ,,, you had me all excitied when I saw Spring Rate / Rear Shocks ,,,

I thought you had posted in the wrong category and you were selling Rear Shocks at a special rate because Spring was coming up ,,,

I kill myself ,,, LOL