Page 1 of 1

Drive belt change

Posted: Fri Aug 05, 2016 1:17 am
by GordonBH
Hi all,

Looking to change my drive belt (07 SS) are there any tips and tricks?

I assume it will be a tight job to get it round the pulley.

Re: Drive belt change

Posted: Fri Aug 05, 2016 9:36 am
by CanuckHoss
is the drive belt shot / done / no good??

We just did one on an SS...it can be done...hopefully you don't need a new drive pulley because then you split the bike!!!

Re: Drive belt change

Posted: Fri Aug 05, 2016 1:35 pm
by GordonBH
Hi Barry,

I have 2 small rock holes in the centreline, I have had them for about 3,000miles (including the trip to the international meet in Germany) and have opened up the throttle countless times and it's not deteriorating. I got a replacement though so want to fit it. The pulley looks good so I don't want to/need to split.

While the swing arm is out I thought I should replace the bushings (20,000 miles). I've emailed you separately on that. I've reviewed the other site re bushings and it seems reasonable to do for me.

Re: Drive belt change

Posted: Fri Aug 05, 2016 2:42 pm
by mmaupin
Gordon,

The "Boss Hoss Bike Book" has several good tips on tensioning and aligning.

The main thing is not to over tension and stretch the belt. At least for me, the alignment thing has always gone well.

How about the brakes and tire while you have it apart?

Re: Drive belt change

Posted: Sat Aug 06, 2016 3:55 am
by GordonBH
Thanks Mark,

I have a kriket and use that - I tend towards 300, no more and haven't had any skipping issues.

I use the old-fashioned way of alignment starting with a visual central belt tracking then - I wrap a thin line around the rear tire as high as I can and pull it either side and past the front axle (the line is secured by axle stands and kept taut).

I move the stands until the line is just touching the tire walls at the rear curve and front curve I use cigarette papers to indicate when just touching. I measure the gap to the downtubes - usually it's off to one side. Then it's adjust and check tension and realign the stands until it's tracking true and at 300.

I have noticed that if you have a perfect 300 and adjust the right tensioner out you will increase the tension as the rear pulley is inboard of the fulcrum point of the left tensioner and moves rearwards when the right hand tensioner is screwed out. So tension is checked after every adjustment.

It's helped reduce belt whine to nearly gone too.

Re: Drive belt change

Posted: Wed Aug 31, 2016 11:13 pm
by SQ4MN
I had a rock go thru my belt 6 years ago. I bought a new belt, its still on the shelf. The original belt still is fine with the hole in it and it does not squeak.