34 to 32 tooth front pulley

[Drm1]

I'm considering going to the 32 tooth front pulley from the stock 34. Reason: I'd like to have more low end power. I know it will add more RPM's at higher speeds which I'm OK with. Anyone made this move and what have you experienced?

[CanuckHoss]

We had a customer go the other way on his 2008 SS last spring because the drive pulley was NOT available for months..he opted to go to the 34...said that he really honestly never noticed any difference in any way at all...

[GordonBH]

That's interesting to know that the 34 doesn't make much difference, I may be in the same situation one day with my SS, any grinding needed to get the 34 in?

[wag]

Smaller pulley will make you go slower, you have plenty of power for the 34.

[hogv8]

I've always ran a 32 so I can't testify to difference however I've heard over the years from some guys that do run a 34 can't do along smokey burn out . My engine is slightly modified and runs runs dam good but I have no problem lighting up the rear tire at about 20 mph for a long smokey any time I want to . However with my rear tires costing $300.00 it doesn't happen often .

[Puff]

When I went from the 34 to the 32,
my rpm's actually went down at
highway speeds!
The factory guys said the 32 allowed my
tranny to hook up more completely.
I have better low-end now as well.
I didn't expect the lower rpm's.

[CanuckHoss]

That's interesting to know that the 34 doesn't make much difference, I may be in the same situation one day with my SS, any grinding needed to get the 34 in?

Gordon...

Ummm..you may NOT want to hear this but with an SS you need to split the bike..not all the way but a bit to change the front pulley...not such a great design I know...

If you are thinking pulleys then you should grab the slightly used front / read and belt we have..food for thought..

[Drm1]

Thanks...all good information. I did hear back from Marv and he himself runs a smaller front pulley. He also echoed what some have said here....Better hook-up, lower top speed and easier burnouts. The price was right so I'll be picking one up from him next week and maybe replace the belt while I'm at it.

[V8Bikers]

Sounds good, looking forward to hear how you like it!

[GordonBH]

Barry,

Yes, I'd prefer to hear "it's an easy job, unbolt, slip off, replace and bolt back" but que sera, sera. I've just done the drive belt and swing arm bushings and would pull it apart if I had to, that's life and you've got to face it.

ps send me a price for those sprockets, (mine are good but am curious).

Cheers mate

[CanuckHoss]

Barry,

Yes, I'd prefer to hear "it's an easy job, unbolt, slip off, replace and bolt back" but que sera, sera. I've just done the drive belt and swing arm bushings and would pull it apart if I had to, that's life and you've got to face it.

ps send me a price for those sprockets, (mine are good but am curious).

Cheers mate

OK will send in a PM thanks

[Imzz4]

Dave, When you get your pulley and begin to torque the bolts down, its good idea to mount a dial indicator w a magnetic base to the frame so you can be sure the run out is as close to zero as possible. Just my 2 cents from past experience. I clean the mating surfaces completely with scotch brite pads too.

[Drm1]

That's a great idea! Should have done that when I moved the pulley out some for the new tire and rim.

THANKS!!