Drive belt change

repairs, maintanence, electrical wizardry, mechanical epiphany, etc.
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GordonBH
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Location: Middle England, literally, middle of England

Drive belt change

Post by GordonBH »

Hi all,

Looking to change my drive belt (07 SS) are there any tips and tricks?

I assume it will be a tight job to get it round the pulley.
Gordon from England
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CanuckHoss
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Re: Drive belt change

Post by CanuckHoss »

is the drive belt shot / done / no good??

We just did one on an SS...it can be done...hopefully you don't need a new drive pulley because then you split the bike!!!
CanuckHoss

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Barry Radu, President Destination Cycles

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GordonBH
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Location: Middle England, literally, middle of England

Re: Drive belt change

Post by GordonBH »

Hi Barry,

I have 2 small rock holes in the centreline, I have had them for about 3,000miles (including the trip to the international meet in Germany) and have opened up the throttle countless times and it's not deteriorating. I got a replacement though so want to fit it. The pulley looks good so I don't want to/need to split.

While the swing arm is out I thought I should replace the bushings (20,000 miles). I've emailed you separately on that. I've reviewed the other site re bushings and it seems reasonable to do for me.
Gordon from England
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mmaupin
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Re: Drive belt change

Post by mmaupin »

Gordon,

The "Boss Hoss Bike Book" has several good tips on tensioning and aligning.

The main thing is not to over tension and stretch the belt. At least for me, the alignment thing has always gone well.

How about the brakes and tire while you have it apart?
Regards,

Mark

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GordonBH
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Location: Middle England, literally, middle of England

Re: Drive belt change

Post by GordonBH »

Thanks Mark,

I have a kriket and use that - I tend towards 300, no more and haven't had any skipping issues.

I use the old-fashioned way of alignment starting with a visual central belt tracking then - I wrap a thin line around the rear tire as high as I can and pull it either side and past the front axle (the line is secured by axle stands and kept taut).

I move the stands until the line is just touching the tire walls at the rear curve and front curve I use cigarette papers to indicate when just touching. I measure the gap to the downtubes - usually it's off to one side. Then it's adjust and check tension and realign the stands until it's tracking true and at 300.

I have noticed that if you have a perfect 300 and adjust the right tensioner out you will increase the tension as the rear pulley is inboard of the fulcrum point of the left tensioner and moves rearwards when the right hand tensioner is screwed out. So tension is checked after every adjustment.

It's helped reduce belt whine to nearly gone too.
Gordon from England
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SQ4MN
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Re: Drive belt change

Post by SQ4MN »

I had a rock go thru my belt 6 years ago. I bought a new belt, its still on the shelf. The original belt still is fine with the hole in it and it does not squeak.
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