Welcome to the Worldwide V8 Bikers Forum

This is a few years older than you stated but ... https://www.facebook.com/groups/1301403 ... nref=story

Curtis is a Stand up guy.

RocketSteve wrote:

wag wrote:Funny.....I used to own that 2008 SS

Anyone here know who sold the Blue BH to Wag, he's on this forum and was the 1st owner.

I've never been through this process before but it seems I need the 1st date of registration for the Export/Import forms and he might be my last hope...

Steve
The first date of registration is on the title,You will also need the date of manufacturing is on the frame
John

Oldun wrote:Hey Steve

I have a 1998 single-speed shark-mouth artwork bagger auto in California US, and a 2006 350 2-speed custom-painted 'Kiwi Beauty' bagger in Wanganui NZ, and I should probably sell at least one of them as I ride my 2x 502s (in Cali and NZ) preferentially. Let me know if you are interested. I can't even tell you the mileage of either right now... but I could find out in a week or so , Pictures available on request!

Hi Oldun, my ideal BH would be no older than 2007, a low mileage well cared for small block, SS model, as close to standard paint as possible and in the USA as shipping is cheaper and quicker. I would like to arrange the Export/Import myself, no crates as the EU regs are taking the p*ss. This BH will be riding with a Mustang or similar strapped down inside a dedicated vehicle shipping container, simple, safer and rock solid

petitemoose wrote:This is a few years older than you stated but ... https://www.facebook.com/groups/1301403 ... nref=story

Curtis is a Stand up guy.

Would prefer a newer model Petitemoose and happy to spend a few more bucks, thanks for finding this one

ventury wrote:

RocketSteve wrote:

wag wrote:Funny.....I used to own that 2008 SS

Anyone here know who sold the Blue BH to Wag, he's on this forum and was the 1st owner.

I've never been through this process before but it seems I need the 1st date of registration for the Export/Import forms and he might be my last hope...

Steve
The first date of registration is on the title,You will also need the date of manufacturing is on the frame
John

Cheer's John, wouldn't it be great if the DVLA also operated in the USA ~ Everything in one place
Getting one from the States should prove easier all round.

Email sent.

Good luck Steve, the 'right' one is always worth waiting for (and it's always the last one we find )

Found this one at Mountain Boss Hoss Cycles in PA;

http://www.mountainbosshoss.com/used16/ ... shoss.html

One owner from new, he's in his 70's and decided now's the time to get a trike, full history with MBH Cycles since new and I just need some reassurance from experts here that this would be a good buy?



Would any forum members live near this dealer and be able to pop in to give it a quick look over?

IF that bike is in your budget, buy it. You'll not go wrong
with a Mountain BH bike or trike IMHO. It looks like it has a factory 300 rear wheel and tire. I always liked the idea
of a NOS bottle being used as a tool kit box.
It gets my nod to buy it.

IF you look through their bike for sale you'll see where
they sold a 04 383 CI V8 Chopper for 19.9 K ???
Only 3.5 K miles on it???

Paul H

Many thanks Paul, I'm also getting the feeling this bike is good to go.

Tom Shaffer at the shop is guaranteeing this bike, it has a clear title and he mentioned Bill Taylor (previously of the BHRA) will be passing by to pick up a BH and I could contact him if I need a reliable 2nd opinion.

Steve,

It looks a good one. In my case the original title was missing (Ohio I think) and the DVLA accepted all the other documentation, Vin (with my decoding) and photo of the frame plate which said 3/07. However with the missing original title they offered an 06 plate (go figure) or a Q plate so guess which one I took?

Good luck, lots of help on here.

The description says "2 speed auto with reverse and Park". Park? Did I miss something?

It's a long time ago now but my experience with Ford Automatics has been something like:

R - Reverse
P - Park (Handbrake mode)
N - Neutral
D - Drive in full auto (with Kick-down sports mode)
1st - 1st gear only
2nd - 2nd gear only

Do we have something different here?

RocketSteve wrote:It's a long time ago now but my experience with Ford Automatics has been something like:

R - Reverse
P - Park (Handbrake mode)
N - Neutral
D - Drive in full auto (with Kick-down sports mode)
1st - 1st gear only
2nd - 2nd gear only

Do we have something different here?

The "PARK" is going to be the line-lock for the rear brake I am 99% assuming. AND I never ever trusted it...it came of more than once on different bikes...a person is far better off wrapping a bandana around the front brake lever for uneven surfaces

CanuckHoss wrote:

RocketSteve wrote:It's a long time ago now but my experience with Ford Automatics has been something like:

R - Reverse
P - Park (Handbrake mode)
N - Neutral
D - Drive in full auto (with Kick-down sports mode)
1st - 1st gear only
2nd - 2nd gear only

Do we have something different here?

The "PARK" is going to be the line-lock for the rear brake I am 99% assuming. AND I never ever trusted it...it came of more than once on different bikes...a person is far better off wrapping a bandana around the front brake lever for uneven surfaces

As Barry said, the 'park' might be the line lock for the rear brake.
I trusted it once, and never again...
Repairs up to 1500 were the result, covered by the insurance after less than 3 month of owning it.

By the way:
Welcome to the greatest insanity of the world!

Thanks for the welcome Martin, was that repair related to the bike falling over, running away down a hill or breaking the Line-lock?

By the way, Bill Taylor has checked over the bike and recommended I do the deal.
So I have and hope to be the proud 2nd owner soon...

Hay Rockie, there is not anything about a FORD automatic
on a BH . Yes there are some Ford parts in it, but
nothing to compare to a car automatic.

I think you've made a great choice buying anything
from Tom at Mountain BH. AND you can tell him I
said so. Been knowing Tom from the mid 90's.
Super nice guy.

Paul H

Park ONLY applies to Trikes. They have a different transmission than the bikes. There is a lever in-line to the rear brake that "Locks" the pressure on the calipers. 99.999% of the time it will fail. When you turn these bikes off they will free roll. Granted they are 1200+ lbs and do not roll easy but if parked on a slope, they can. Engage the front brake and hold it there with a penny in the gap on the lever or some other creative way.
Congrats on the bike

Hi Paul, I'll let Tom know of your recommendation. Ford was the only experience I had of Auto's - can't wait for this new experience now

Sounds like it's a wise move to leave the Park thing alone then, I normally put back wheel up against kerb on hills so I'll keep to that practice Petitmoose.

Looks like this thread's going to close down now the deed's been done... I'll keep you guy's posted on progress and thanks again to all for your help in getting me my dream bike.

Hi Steve,

Glad to have been help and of course will continue via other means of comms.

I was going to mention on Friday the basic riding rules and NEVER, NEVER trust the in-line lock. You press on the footbrake, lean your right hand back just under the right cover, about mid-way up, push in the black plastic ball, while releasing the footbrake and lo and behold the bike won't roll - FOR ABOUT 10 MINUTES. I used it once on my slightly sloped drive to come back out of the garage thinking "grinding noise?" to see the bike slowly but surely 'garaging' itself backwards. I'll send you a photo of my super-duper (and cheap) homemade front brake lock.

Glad all worked out well.

A Bicycle tire tube sliced at about 1/2" sections makes a great parking Brake. Put it around the handle bar grip and around the front brake lever and your done. Release it and store the Sliced tube on the handle bar grip
john

Sounds like Gordon & Johnny might be working in unison here...?

Congrats on the new bike!!! One more thing to know about the line lock. When I first got my bike I rode to Corbin to get my custom seat made and applied the "parking brake". It didn't fail, it refused to release!!! After 15 minutes I finally called my dealer and he told me to release the bleeder on the rear caliper. Apparently if you put "too much pressure" on it when setting it, it can't release. The other thing I found out not to use is the steering lock. First time I rode with the group in northern California and pushed that lock down they told me that the lock can get stuck and there's no way to release it. Just a little heads up.

johnny redneck wrote:A Bicycle tire tube sliced at about 1/2" sections makes a great parking Brake. Put it around the handle bar grip and around the front brake lever and your done. Release it and store the Sliced tube on the handle bar grip
john

I like Dennis's simple idea of the coin stuck in the lever...simple and nobody can see it there to fuck with it..

RocketSteve wrote:Thanks for the welcome Martin, was that repair related to the bike falling over, running away down a hill or breaking the Line-lock?

By the way, Bill Taylor has checked over the bike and recommended I do the deal.
So I have and hope to be the proud 2nd owner soon...

The Brake released itself and as I parked on a slope it rolled backwards broke the sidestand off and fell onto the side to crash the tank...
Luckily it happend next to a building place, that's where I went, and the crane could pull it upright again.